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Trip Overview
Island Peak Climbing is known as Imja Tse peak of 6,160 meters from sea level. Island peak was named by Eric Shipton's party in 1953, as the peak resembles an island in a sea of ice when viewed form Dingboche. Later in 1983, the peak was renamed as Imja Tse. Island peak was first ascended in 1953 by a British team as preparation for climbing Everest. Tenzing Norgay Sherpa was one of the members who successfully ascended it. Island peak is part of the south ridge of Lhotse Shar and the main land forms a semicircle of cliffs that rise to the north of the summits of Nuptse, Lhotse, Middle Peak and Lhotse Shar. Cho Polu and Makalu lie to the east of the Island Peak. Baruntse, Amphu and Ama Dablam lie to the south.
To climb Island Peak, one has the option of starting from a base camp at 5,087 metres (16,690 ft) called Pareshaya Gyab and starting the climb between 2 and 3 am. Another popular option is to ascend to High Camp at around 5,600 metres (18,400 ft) to reduce the amount of effort and time needed for summit day. However, adequate water supply and concerns about sleeping at a higher altitude may dictate starting from base camp. Base camp to high camp is basically a hike but just above high camp, some rocky steps require moderate scrambling and up through a broad open gully. At the top of the gully, glacier travel begins and proceeds up to a steep snow and ice slope. From here, fixed ropes may be set up by the guides for the strenuous ascent of nearly 100 metres (330 ft) to the summit ridge. The climb to the summit is somewhat difficult due to steep climbing. On top, while Mount Everest is a mere ten kilometres away to the north, the view will be blocked by the massive wall of Lhotse, towering 2,300 m (7,500 ft) above the summit.
