Mount Manaslu 8,163m, also known as Kampunge is the eighth highest mountain in the world. It is located in the west-central part of Mansiri Himal part of the Himalayas of about forty miles east of Annapurna ranges. Manaslu in Sanskrit means “manasa” meaning “Intellect” or “soul”. It takes approximately 50 days to climb Manaslu Peak. Toshio Imanishi from Japan and Gyaltsen Norbu Sherpa were the first to successfully ascend this peak on 9 May 1956. The total distance of the caravan route through Gorkha is 120.6 km and through Dhadingbesi is 120.1 km. The total climbing route length is 12.2 km from the Base Camp. The nearest settlement to the Manaslu peak is Samagaun at a distance of 1.9 km. The nearest police post from the peak is in Samagaun 1.9 km away. The nearest Armed Police Force and army posts from the peak is in Dhadingbesi at a distance of 120.1 km or Gorkha at 120.6 km. The nearest health post from the peak is in Samagaun at a distance of 1.9 km. Normally, there are four camps that need to be set up in the approach of the mountain. There will be a few stretches of steep climbing and crevasses from Camp I to Camp II. Slippery snow climbing is required from Camp II to Camp III. Avalanches are a threat from Camp III to Camp IV.
Climbing Routes of Mount Manaslu information:
Base Camp (4,800m/15,750ft) to Camp I (5,700m/15,750ft) involves climbing over rock slabs and moraine, followed by a crevassed glacier with occasional small ice steps to Camp I. The route continues up steep slopes which lessen as the route progresses, weaving between seracs. This is the most technical section of the climb and takes between 3-6 hours.
Camp I to Camp II (6,400m/21,000ft) is considered as the technical crux of the climb with some steep sections fixed with ropes and occasionally ladders. It is located at the top of the serac section of the climb on a somewhat flat area safe from danger, although this campsite can receive a lot of snow accumulation the terrain features long 40 degree snow slopes with a few vertical ice steps where front-point cramponing is required. Acclimatized climbers can complete this leg in approximately 3-4 hours. The route continues up the upper glacier before increasing in steepness as we start to approach camp three.
Camp II to Camp III (6,800m/22,310ft) the route continues up the upper glacier before increasing in steepness as we start to approach camp three. This camp is notorious for experiencing strong winds and we need to make sure our tents have bombproof anchors. The climb from camp two to camp three is one of the shortest on the mountain and takes between 1.5-3 hours.
Camp III to Camp IV (7,450m/24,445ft) there is 550m of strenuous climbing to Camp IV. The route continues up the remaining glacier weaving through seracs with some short steep sections of ice and snow which will have fixed rope in place for safety. There is an exposed traverse with remains of past expeditions in the shape of old abandoned and destroyed tents which takes us to high camp, camp four. The climb from camp three to camp four takes between 4-8 hours.
Camp IV to the Mt. Manaslu (8,163m/26,781ft). Summit day will start well before dawn and the climb should take about 6-7 hrs. The conditions and the route heads up a moderate slope immediately out of high camp before arriving at the first of the summit plateaus. The route climbs three separate tiered plateaus before arriving at the final pyramid slope. From here another short steep slope below the immediate summit is climbed until reaching the fore summit. The true summit is reached with an exposed technical traverse for around 70 meters in linear distance and this section needs to have fixed rope in place. The climb from camp four to the summit takes between 4-8 hours with 2-4 hours for the descent to camp four.