Nepal Expedition Information

Nepal Expedition Information

Nepal first came into world focus when Tenzing Norgay Sherpa of Nepal and Sir Edmund Hillary of New Zealand conquered Mt. Everest in 1953. Ever since, there have been countless expeditions heading off to the Himalayas. With eight of world’s highest peaks within Nepal’s boundaries, there is tremendous interest in the Nepal Himalaya. Most of the peaks over 8,000m high were conquered during the Golden Decade of Climbing in the 1950s. Climbing by then had become a national affair with various nations vying with each other to be the first to climb. Today it is all about breaking records. There are some 326 peaks in Nepal open for mountaineering today. Climbing permits for peaks in the Nepal Himalayas are issued for all seasons by the Mountaineering Section of the Ministry of Tourism and Civil Aviation. The requisite official documents must be furnished when seeking permission to climb. Around 121 peaks do not require liaison officers for expedition while the rest must be accompanied by one.


There are four mountaineering seasons: spring (March-May), summer (June-August), autumn (September-November) and winter (December-February). A total of 153 Himalayan peaks are open to mountaineers. Climbing permits are issued by the Ministry of Tourism & Civil Aviation (MOTCA) for 135 peaks known as mountaineering peaks, and by the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) for 18 smaller peaks, known as trekking peaks, which range from 5,587 to 6,654 m in altitude.


The following documents have to be sent to MOTCA, Mountaineering Division when applying for a climbing permit: completed application, endorsement of the National Alpine Club, short biographies of all the members of the expedition (with photograph and signature), map and/or photograph of the mountain indicating climbing route and approach route map. Enlistment of the expedition's name does not require any fee and it should not be paid before receiving the permit from the Ministry of Tourism.Permits to climb the 18 trekking peaks are issued by NMA on "first come first served" basis. It is necessary to appoint a government recognized trekking agency of Nepal as a local liaison for the expedition in Kathmandu. The trekking agency will look after all the requirements during the expedition.


A royalty (climbing fee) ranging from US$ 1,500 to US$ 10,000 (according to the altitude of the peak) and US$ 50,000 for Everest is charged by MOTCA for a group of seven persons. An additional US$ 20,000 is charged for the normal south east ridge route on Everest. An additional US$ 200 to US$ 1,500 per person (US$ 10,000 per person for Everest) will be charged if the group exceeds seven persons. The full amount of the royalty has to be paid within two months of the date of issue of the permit, otherwise it may be cancelled. The royalty must be paid directly to MOTCA by bank draft or bank transfer in convertible foreign currency only. A rebate of up to 40% on the royalty may be given during the summer and winter seasons. Full or partial rebate for a fixed period may be given for new peaks or for unclimbed open peaks, on "first come first served" basis.


Food and equipment imported for expeditions require an import license and should be custom cleared. Walkie-talkies, Tran receiver sets and other communication equipment are controlled items in Nepal and have to be declared at the customs office at the entry point.