Manaslu Expedition (8,163m)

Manaslu Expedition (8,163m)

manaslu-expeditionMt. Manaslu (8,163) is the high peak of the Gorkha mountains massif and is the eighth highest mountain of the world. It is located in the Mansiri Himal, part of the Nepalese Himalayas of about forty miles east of Annapurna ranges. It requires more times than other 8000m Peaks in Nepal due to long approach to reach to the base of the mountain however we can use a helicopter to make this expedition shorter. The name Manaslu is derived from the Sanskrit word “Manasa” and can be translated as “Mountain of the Spirit”. The mountain’s long ridges and valley glaciers offer feasible approaches from all directions and it culminates in a peak that tower steeply above its surrounding landscape and is a dominant feature when seen from a far. Manaslu was first climbed on May 9, 1956 by Toshio Imanishi and Gyalzen Norbu, members of a Japanese expedition. Trekkers and climbers need extensive experience before taking to the slopes of Mt. Manaslu. It is a mountain in Nepal that is known to be dangerous, and due to its remote and secluded location, rescue operations are hampered should anything go wrong. Normally, there are four camps that need to be set up in the approach of the mountain. There will be a few stretches of steep climbing and crevasses from Camp I to Camp II. Slippery snow climbing is required from Camp II to Camp III. Avalanches are a threat from Camp III to Camp IV. The first survey of the peak was made by a Japanese expedition in 1952 and the first climb was made by Japanese team on the peak in 1953.

Climbing Routes:

From Base Camp (4,800m/15,750ft) to Camp (5,700m/15,750ft) involves climbing over rock slabs and moraine, followed by a crevassed glacier with occasional small ice steps to Camp I. The route continues up steep slopes which lessen as the route progresses, weaving between seracs. This is the most technical section of the climb and takes between 3-6 hours.

From Camp I to Camp II (6,400m/21,000ft) is considered as the technical crux of the climb with some steep sections fixed with ropes and occasionally ladders. It is located at the top of the serac section of the climb on a somewhat flat area safe from danger, although this campsite can receive a lot of snow accumulation the terrain features long 40 degree snow slopes with a few vertical ice steps where front-point cramponing is required. Acclimatized climbers can complete this leg in approximately 3-4 hours. The route continues up the upper glacier before increasing in steepness as we start to approach camp three.

From Camp II to Camp III (6,800m/22,310ft) the route continues up the upper glacier before increasing in steepness as we start to approach camp three. This camp is notorious for experiencing strong winds and we need to make sure our tents have bombproof anchors. The climb from camp two to camp three is one of the shortest on the mountain and takes between 1.5-3 hours.

From III to Camp IV (7,450m/24,445ft) there is 550m of strenuous climbing to Camp IV. The route continues up the remaining glacier weaving through seracs with some short steep sections of ice and snow which will have fixed rope in place for safety. There is an exposed traverse with remains of past expeditions in the shape of old abandoned and destroyed tents which takes us to high camp, camp four. The climb from camp three to camp four takes between 4-8 hours.

From camp IV to the Mt. Manaslu (8,163m/26,781ft). Summit day will start well before dawn and the climb should take about 6-7 hrs. The climbing is not technical, but any summit day on an 8000m peak is unforgettable. The conditions and the route heads up a moderate slope immediately out of high camp before arriving at the first of the summit plateaus. The route climbs three separate tiered plateaus before arriving at the final pyramid slope. From here another short steep slope below the immediate summit is climbed until reaching the fore summit. The true summit is reached with an exposed technical traverse for around 70 meters in linear distance and this section needs to have fixed rope in place. The climb from camp four to the summit takes between 4-8 hours with 2-4 hours for the descent to camp four.

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Fact of Manaslu Expedition

Name of Expedition: 

Mt. Manaslu Expedition

Elevation:

8,156 m (26,759 ft) 

Location:

Gandaki Zone, Nepal 

Range:

Mansiri HimalHimalayas

Rating:

Highly Adventurous

Rank:

8th World Highest Peak 

Grade:

Strenuous & Difficult

Activities:

Trekking and Mountaineering

Minimum Altitude:

800m

Maximum Altitude:

8,163m

Season:

September to November and April to May

Transportation:

Private vehicle 

Duration:

61 Days

Entry Point:

Gorkha

Exit Point:

Arughat

Walking hours per day:

5 to 7 Hours

Group Size:

2 to 15 Persons